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For years, people have been putting extra notches in their disks so that they can use the back side of the disk, too. In order to do this, you make a cardboard templ 
This article by Patricia Herrington appears in the September, 89 MOAUG news in slightly different form under the title, "CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NEW DISK DRIVE!" It was written mostly for the new drive owner but also contains some shopping information, etc.  The PowerPAINT picture entitled "Stork.PIC", also by Pat, goes with this article.  Pat thinks it resembles a duck but you are free to change it around. 
 
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I promise you this... you are going to LOVE your new disk drive!  Not only is it super-fast and convenient, but you are going to save a lot of money on media.  I'm sure you've already thoroughly read your manual, but I'll bet you still have questions.  What else do you need to know as a proud new disk drive owner?  Well:
 
When you unpack your drive, SAVE THE STYROFOAM CONTAINER. It will be handy later when you need to transport your drive for some reason (like to ADAMCON!) And when you do have to move your drive, the experts advise you to insert a disk and close the drive so that the head doesn't rattle around and get damaged.  (Please note: it is exactly the opposite for double-sided drives. With a DS drive, insert a disk but leave the latch OPEN so that the heads don't knock against each other.) 
 
Turn your disk drive on BEFORE you turn your computer on. This ensures that your drive is properly "logged on".  Some software will not recognize the drive otherwise.  SmartWRITER (the built- in word processor) is a prime example.  If this is your SECOND disk drive, be aware that SmartWRITER will NOT recognize it.  Ever.  Coleco wasn't planning that far ahead in the beginning.  But that's the only "program" you're likely to find which refuses to recognize your second drive, so take heart. 
 
Always remove any disk in the drive before shutting it off. A neat trick to help you remember that your drive is occupied:  Place a thin strip of fluorescent tape on the top ledge of the latch.  You won't be able to see it when the drive is open, but it will be visible when the drive is closed, and will remind you to remove your disk. 
 
Go down to Radio Shack and purchase a disk head cleaning kit.  This usually consists of a special disk with cutouts exposing a material that you soak with some liquid (alcohol?) which is included in the kit.  The kit is good for several cleanings.  You don't need to clean your drive very often; depending how much you use it, every six months or so should suffice.  If you get read errors, try cleaning your drive before you panic.  
 
If, when you insert a disk, the light comes on and you can hear it whirring but it doesn't stop, remove the disk. Chances are good that you put it in upside-down, or that it has not been formatted.  You MUST format your disks before using them.
 
Your drive comes with a formatting utility.  It works, but I don't like it much.  There are LOTS of format utilities out there, and most of them are far superior.  Walters Brothers, Orphanware, and many others have some really superb disk management utilities.  Backup+3.0 works fine for standard formatting.  A VERY GOOD, and very cheap, choice is the PD contribution by Digital Express called "One Minute Formatter". If you just purchased a SECOND disk drive, you can't live without this utility, which can format disks in BOTH drives at once.  It also gives you choices for directory size, etc.  
 
If, when you try to store something on a disk, you get a "CANNOT WRITE TO THIS FILE" message, check to see if you are trying to store to a disk with a write-protect tab on it. If so, remove the tab (or change disks.) 
 
QUIT SMOKING, or at least don't smoke around your disk drive. Big John loves to point out to me that my smoking is as bad for my electronic equipment as it is for my own health.  I confess I haven't attained the state of grace required to follow this advice, but maybe you will.  
 
There are a few programs that do not translate well from datapack to disk, including some of Coleco's original software.  Your SmartBASIC datapack, for example, will continue to search for the default tape drive as the number one drive.  Some programs, such as Recipe Filer, won't work, period.  To get a disk version of BASIC, you can use a number of tricks.  If you have Backup+3.0, use the "copy BASIC" option.  (This will give you a modified version of BASIC; just be aware that it's not "plain vanilla".  There are now so many disk versions of BASIC that it's not worth trying to describe them all.  We have Gregg Noblett's "Plain Vanilla BASIC for Disk" if you need it. 
 
For disk versions of such programs as Recipe Filer, check your catalogs for patches designed by Walter Brothers.  Ron Collins has also converted many programs to disk, notably "Cabbage Patch Kids".  Digital Express contributed a PD patch to convert Troll's Tale to disk.  And there are many others.  For the most part, though, you will have no trouble running your software from disk. Almost everything that's come out in recent years will run fine.
 
Your drive does NOT require any kind of special disk.  You can use any brand you like.  Some people have favorites, but ADAM isn't fussy.  They are called 5 1/4" floppy disks (or diskettes.) Most these days are DS/DD (Double sided, double density) but you can also use SS/DD (single sided, double density.) They DO have to be double density, but then, I don't think I've ever seen a single density disk!  Disks are usually packaged in boxes of ten.
 
Don't pay $10 for a box of disks.  Most generic disks work like a charm.  You can get them really cheap by mail, particularly if you order in quantity.  Sometimes the quantity disks are packaged in plastic only (no individual boxes.) If this matters to you, check the ads carefully or ask the sales clerk.  Almost all companies include disk sleeves (these may be paper or Tyvek) and color-coded labels in the price of the disks.  Most also include write-protect tabs.  All these items are sold separately (cheap.)

I have ordered disks from about a dozen different companies. The larger suppliers of disks all have 800 numbers, they guarantee their products and their service, they accept charge cards, they have great prices, and they are prompt. I guess that's why they are large!) I do, however, avoid buying disks at flea markets.  You never know where those disks came from or how they've been treated.  Until you hook up with a mail order house, buy your disks at a computer store or a department store.
 
If you've ever tried to back up a tape and accidentally switched the source and destination, you will appreciate the advantage of write-protect tabs for your disks.  To prevent accidental erasure, all you have to do is put the tab (a small piece of paper with adhesive backing) over the square notch on the side of your disk.  You can then read the disk, load it into memory, and copy it to another medium, but you cannot change the information on the disk itself.  If you want to write to the disk, simply remove the tab.
 
Disk organizers come in many sizes and shapes, from small plastic boxes to huge cabinets, and even notebook inserts. They are available locally, but the best price I've found is from MEI/Microcenter.  MEI also has the very best prices on stiff cardboard disk mailers, preprinted with all the standard "handle with care" notices.  These are a super buy at only nineteen cents each, in lots of fifty.
 
Organizing your disks is easier with color-coding.  Besides colored labels and containers, you can also get colored disks.  The best source for these is DISKS & LABELS TO GO. They carry 
* SEVENTEEN * colors, including yellow, red, orange, tan, pink, light and dark green, three shades of blue, lavender, two shades of grey, white, brown, maroon... even fuchsia!  They are sold in lots of 20 (one color per lot) and cost just 41 cents each.  
 
For years, people have been putting extra notches in their disks so that they can use the back side of the disk, too. In order to do this, you make a cardboard template or use an old disk as a pattern, and then cut out a second square notch on the second side of the disk.  That's the easy part. The hard part is to take a hole punch and punch two more round holes close to the hub of the disk without ruining the disk.  According to all the experts, YOU ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THIS.  But it's practically irresistible.  One of the big advantages is that you can mail two disks for the price of one when you trade disks with a friend.  
 
It is also very handy to put two programs that belong together on the same disk.  For example, I have PowerPAINT on the front of a disk and CLIPPER on the back; I also have SpritePOWER on the front of another with FontPOWER on the back.  Obviously, you would not want to do this with any important files UNLESS YOU HAVE MADE BACKUPS.  I've never had trouble, but you never know. 
 
On the other hand, this homemade notching business is time- consuming, and it's possible to destroy a disk if you are not careful with the hole punch.  In short, it's a pain!  I have better things to do with my time, so I stopped double- notching disks years ago.  I used to have a source to buy them, but that source dried up.  I have been trying to find more ever since.  On a hunch, I checked with DISKS & LABELS TO GO, and guess what!  That's right, you can buy them from that company for 42 cents apiece.  (Ask for "flippy" disks.) It beats the tar out of doing it yourself, IF you are going to ignore the experts and do it anyway.  The choice is yours... but at least you have a choice.
 
Subscribe to COMPUTER SHOPPER, or pick it up at the checkout stand.  Not only does it have some great ADAM columns by Paul Pappas and Faye Deere, but you will find bargains galore on disks and disk accessories (among other items.)
 
 
MEI/Micro Center:  1100 Steelwood Road Columbus, OH 43212-3972
                   1-800-634-3478 
 
Disks & Labels To Go:  Route 206, East Hampton Business Park
                       Mt. Holly, NJ 08060
                   1-800-426-3303 (Tell Lisa I said "Hi!") 
 
Walters Software:  RD#4 Box 289-A Titusville, PA 16354
                   (814) 827-3776 
 
Ron Collins:  529 Grandview Barberton, OH 44203
                   OR access the Akron BBS: (216) 882-4720
       
(Use Ron's address to find software formerly distributed by Orphanware, including Tony Morehan's super patches & utilities.) 
 
"Digital Express" products and Solomon Swift's public domain software are now being distributed by The SoftWORKS Factory.  Contact Sol or Tony Patterson at:
                                                                 
                   TSF PO Box 732 Ocean Springs, MS 39574 
 
--- PJH MOAUG 9/1/89
                    
ou will find bargains galore on disks and disk accessories (among other items.)
 
 
MEI/Micr
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